Technology development and readiness for testing: tExtended reaches new milestone
At the end of May 2025, tExtended has reached its fourth milestone, a significant result in the development of the project solutions.
As part of its mission, the tExtended project is focused on studying, adapting, and implementing existing digital tools, data-driven solutions, and digital technologies to support a circular textile ecosystem. This includes developing technologies for material recovery, waste valorisation, reuse, and recycling into secondary raw materials. tExtended partners will now focus on demonstrating the developed technologies and solutions.
To achieve this milestone, we have brought the development of the project at a sufficient level to start implementing the Real Scale Demonstrator and to continue with the development of the final goal in tExtended: developing knowledge-based solutions for sustainable textile ecosystem.
The key aspects that show our readiness to start the demonstration is described below.
Identification and pre-processing technologies for textile waste
AIMPLAS has led the development of sensor analytics and sorting technologies using near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy and achieving identification of approximately 80% of textile samples, a significant advancement over traditional manual sorting. To separate textile from non-textile components, two main technologies were tested including triboelectric separation (depicted in the figure below), which demonstrated to be effective to remove metallic components from textile waste, and elutriation (air separation) which is used to efficiently recover textile fibres from heavier non-textile parts. These processes were tested on various materials, including polyamide (PA), polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and cotton (CO), and showed consistent efficiency regardless of material type. The technologies have reached Technology Readiness Level 7 (TRL7), which indicates they are ready for pre-industrial scale demonstration.
VTT contributed with identification tests using NIR-HSI (hyperspectral imaging) and tabletop scanners, which are user-friendly and capable of processing a wide range of textile materials. These devices are considered suitable for integration into the real scale demonstrator due to their versatility and ease of use. In parallel, a prototype sorting machine is under development, with ongoing optimization efforts. The algorithm development phase, led by INESC TEC, is still pending, but the hardware is being evaluated for scalability and integration into the demonstrator by MTEX.
The hygienisation technologies developed by CITEVE, while promising, still require further improvement before they can be effectively deployed at scale in real-world applications. This limitation currently restricts their immediate inclusion in the real scale demonstrator. In contrast, the colour removal processes for both polyester (PES) (developed by RISE) and CO (developed by CITEVE) have demonstrated strong potential and are considered suitable for implementation in the upcoming real scale demonstrator. These colour removal methods have shown effectiveness in laboratory settings and are being planned for integration as part of the project’s next steps.
Regarding material separation and removal of PVC, both solvent-based and Polysep process methods have been tested, and both have shown potential for application in the demonstrator. However, their large-scale implementation is dependent upon the results of ongoing environmental impact assessments led by RISE, which aim to determine the most appropriate parameters for scaling these processes from both a technical and sustainability perspective. Overall, while certain technologies are ready for demonstration, others require further refinement to meet the project’s goals for sustainable textile waste processing.
Technologies that have reached TRL7, such as AIMPLAS’ sensor analytics and sorting, are ready for pre-industrial scale deployment. The project’s strategic planning includes risk identification and mitigation, ensuring that only robust and adaptable solutions are advanced to the real scale demonstrator phase.
Focus on the innovative recycling methods developed and optimized within tExtended, as well as their readiness for upscaling.
Concerning the fibre level recycling, four opening lines and three yarn spinning lines were prepared for Real Scale Demonstrator trials. Notably, Purfi’s line was identified as the gentlest, yielding the best fibre properties, though it requires pre-dismantling of garments. CITEVE and RISE provided pilot-scale spinning lines suitable for small-batch yarn production and quality validation (outcomes illustrated in the image below), while Utexbel contributed with an industrial-scale open-end spinning line. The research highlighted the importance of fibre quality-particularly low dust, minimal yarn end content, and the avoidance of foreign fibres-for successful yarn spinning.
As for the thermo-mechanical recycling, the trials at Centexbel and VTT revealed challenges such as high impurity content, unsuitable fibre length or fluffiness, and difficulties in drying materials before melting. To address these, partners are investing in new equipment and exploring the use of chain extenders and additives to maintain or improve polymer chain length during processing. Despite these challenges, successfully melt spun multifilament yarns were produced by RISE, at laboratory scale, using samples from VTT’s and Centexbel’s processes as illustrated.
For the chemical recycling, Biocelsol process from VTT successfully demonstrated the separation of cotton-polyester blends by dissolving the cotton and filtering out polyester, with ongoing efforts to improve solubility and separation at pilot scale. RISE advanced chemical recycling of polyester via glycolysis, showing readiness for demonstration with high-purity input streams. Polyurethane recycling by glycolysis was also explored, focusing on producing polyols suitable for new polyurethane foams.
To conclude, fibre mechanical recycling currently offers higher production capacities, compared to thermo-mechanical and chemical methods. The presence of impurities remains the most significant barrier, underscoring the need for improved sorting and pre-processing. Some partners are developing in-line impurity removal, while others rely on upstream solutions. Optimizing textile identification, sorting, and opening is crucial for improving recycling outcomes and supporting the broader goal of reducing textile waste by up to 80% in the Real Scale Demonstrator.
Textile waste classification
The development of the textile waste classification is based on the categorization of different fractions of textile waste, in order to establish a robust framework for classifying recycled raw materials and to implement a coding system that support the sustainable management of textile waste and promote the adoption of recycled materials in textile production.
Parameters and data fields for the Classification and Coding System have been developed with inputs from the recycling requirements, and specification work has been deployed for the process of mapping and selecting data fields for sorting. The focus has been on defining the classification and coding system for textile waste flows to support routing sorted textile batches for further use.
In parallel with this work, the need to harmonizing industry language has been communicated within the project to keep track of the terminology and describe the parameters in the most logic way. The basis for the first version of Conceptual Framework has been laid by the development of the textile classification system.
Today, there are no systems for quality assurance and specification of recycled raw materials. The required specification refers to parameters such as fibre type and composition, fibre length and chemical profile, which have a major impact on the possible use of the recycled raw material. The industry also requests the possibility for labelling/certification of products based on recycled materials. Consequently, there is a need to develop a textile classification system around this on two levels: specification of recycled raw materials, and labelling of products based on this specification.
First version of Conceptual Framework tool ready for testing
In tExtended, the textile classification system is utilized by Conceptual Framework in identifying optimal utilization routes for textile waste, aiming for the optimization of textile circularity and retention of value.
The diverse material characteristics of textile waste and the sensitivity particularly of the available recycling technologies to the characteristics are among key challenges preventing effective circular use of textile waste at a large scale. The Conceptual Framework is a tool designed to effectively identify the circular textile strategy options possible for various textile waste fractions, and guide in finding the optimal utilization route. This way the tool supports textile circularity and optimizes the value retention of textiles.
More specifically, the Conceptual Framework allows the user to specify the textile waste fraction and derives the optimal pathways utilizing the material characteristics, the requirements of each circular textile strategy and underlying technology, as well as their sustainability impacts. During optimization, the tool simultaneously considers multiple impact factors, including the economic, environmental, social, and product quality impacts of the circular processes. This approach guides the decision-making process by basing it on a comprehensive assessment of sustainability.
The Conceptual Framework is designed mainly for textile market stakeholders that desire to enter the circular economy and explore its possibilities. It seeks to ease the entry into the circular textile market and to support especially systematic textile waste sorting, increase the utilization of textile waste, and connect the fragmented circular textile ecosystem.
To work efficiently, Conceptual Framework requires a harmonized textile waste characterization system, which is facilitated by the textile classification system. Furthermore, the tool’s decision-making accuracy can benefit from efficient tools for the data collection, management and sharing across the textile value chains, which are also developed in the project.
The first iteration of the Conceptual Framework tool is now prepared for testing during the real scale demonstrator. The accuracy of the optimization and the user-friendliness of the tool will, however, continue evolving throughout the remainder of the project. The Conceptual Framework will also play a crucial role in the next phase of tExtended focusing on the realization of the Blueprint for sustainable textile ecosystem.
Planning of the real scale demonstrator completed)
The tExtended project’s Real Scale Demonstrator aims to exhibit digital solutions and technology for textile circularity at a real scale (i.e., larger scale). The demonstrator trials will include material demonstration from waste collection to final product demonstration in garments, workwear, home textiles, and automotive textiles, as well as digital demonstration of the digital solutions developed within tExtended.
The preliminary phase of planning has been completed through determining the partners’ roles in various demonstration activities, and through creating an overview of the Conceptual Framework, a tool for tracking materials and processes, challenges encountered, various evaluations including replication potential, sustainability, and the potential to reduce the textile waste by 80%.
The implementation phase entails the implementation of digital solutions for the traceability, and various demonstration activities in the larger scale. Consequently, the partners will engage in the different demonstration activities, including collection, sorting, pre-processing, waste valorisation, reuse, and recycling. The various recycling methods are explored, including fibre mechanical recycling, thermo-mechanical recycling of synthetics, and chemical recycling of mixed materials (PES/CO) and synthetics. Furthermore, also data sharing activities will be conducted, since the data models are essential elements of the Real Scale Demonstrator.
The key aspects illustrated in this article prove tExtended’s readiness level for the next steps in the projects: in the upcoming months, the partners will apply the knowledge and results here described to start the implementation of the Real Scale Demonstrator. The trials will focus on demonstrating the feasibility of the model on different types of textiles, from apparel and workwear to home and automotive textiles.
These activities will be paired with a study of the replication potential in different European regions, with the aim of showing the potential of the tExtended methodology and circular solutions to reduce textile waste generation by 80%.
For any enquiries about further information on the processes described in this article, please contact Claudia Esposito, Senior EU Project Manager, at: cesposito@carrcommunications.ie
